Spitsbergen 2024 – A special adventure with the POLARIS (Part 5)
from Guido Dwersteg
Longyearbyen is clearly laid out, but still exudes a certain charm. You really do feel a bit like a polar explorer here, who has finally reached a major destination after a long journey and is far away from the stress and hectic pace of everyday life.
After our little arrival party yesterday, there are already organisational things on the agenda today. Firstly, of course, bunkering provisions and drinks. Although we had already stocked up in Tromsø, we still want to be as self-sufficient as possible for the next 8 days and still need some supplies. The supermarket in Longyearbyen leaves nothing to be desired. Here you can find everything a sailor’s heart desires in a huge area. Normally you should order larger purchases in advance. However, we decided not to, as this is more likely to apply to larger excursion and cruise ships. A few shopping trolleys are quickly filled. All that’s missing is some beer and wine. But that’s not so easy on Spitsbergen. The sale of alcohol is strictly regulated here. Locals are only allowed to buy a certain monthly quota and tourists only with the appropriate authorisation or a valid flight ticket. This is probably to prevent the high risk of alcohol abuse here, especially in winter. We travelled here by boat ourselves and were actually of the opinion that we would be able to shop without restrictions. Unfortunately, this is not the case. For some reason, the permit we applied for beforehand is not sufficient for us and so we initially leave the Nordpolet store without having achieved anything. Later, we come up with the idea of trying to use our crew’s existing return flight tickets and lo and behold, no more problems.
The next morning we finally set off again. Everyone is well rested, the cupboards are full and our next destination has already been decided. We want to go to Pyramiden, a former Russian-Soviet mining settlement in the middle of nowhere that has been abandoned for decades. I’ve already devoured various articles and a TV report about this inhospitable place and have always wanted to go here. Our journey takes us further into the Ijsfjord. We make good progress, partly under engine power but also under sail. The landscape around us never ceases to amaze us. Barren mountain slopes, strange-looking rock formations and, in between, deep bays with glaciers or remaining moray eels. The weather also plays along. Only a few clouds pass over us and the sun shines brightly.
The distance to Pyramiden is just under 30 nautical miles. You can’t see much at first. Only a huge mountain with a pyramid-shaped peak sits enthroned at the presumed location of the village. And it is precisely this mountain that gives the abandoned settlement its name. Behind a rocky outcrop, we turn off to port and see the first buildings and pier facilities ahead of us. Even from a distance, we recognise that a lot has fallen into disrepair here in recent years. A real “lost place”, but that’s exactly why we’re here. The closer we get to the coast, the more we can recognise. The “harbour” consists of a jetty nailed together from rough planks and wooden posts. On it is an ancient crane, which is connected to the land via an equally dilapidated conveyor system. Of course, there is no marina here. However, there is a new floating jetty, but two yachts are already moored here today. We therefore decide to drop anchor.
A little later, our Rocna drops into the bay off the coast. Time for our first shore leave. As we have to land here with the dinghy and the water is still very cold even in summer, all crew members have to wear the survival suits we brought with us. They are quite bulky, but better safe than sorry. So while everyone is changing, I get the dinghy ready. Here, too, we have upgraded especially for Svalbard and, in addition to the normal inflatable dinghy, have a large hard plastic dinghy with us. This should protect us from any damage caused by polar bears.
Passing a 30-metre-high pillar with the Cyrillic lettering PYRAMIDEN, you reach the “centre”. Here are the former homes of the miners and their families. All in the square, practical post-communist style, of course. But before we take a closer look around, let’s first go to the local hotel. Yes, there really is a hotel here. In addition to the tourist guides, some tourists are also accommodated here. Passing the reception, we first go to a kind of changing room. Here we get rid of our annoyingly warm suits and of course have to take off our shoes. Uwe also has to stow his weapon in a secure gun cabinet. We then walk through a bright red corridor into the restaurant. Here, too, we find lots of colourful kitsch, deep, comfortable leather armchairs and even a few people.
The friendly waitress then provides us with a few cold drinks and snacks. We are curious to see the many small details, such as an old wall telephone and typical Russian books and decorations. Everything here seems to breathe living history. We certainly feel right at home. But now we want to continue into the town. At least for a short tour, as we have already booked the actual tour with a guide at reception for the next morning. Just a few minutes from the hotel, we are already standing in the town’s central square. There are even a few streets around a large lawn. On it is a sign with a stylised polar bear and Cyrillic letters again. At the very end of the roundabout is a bust of Lenin on a stone pillar. Of course, it should not be missing here. Meanwhile, the empty houses look better than expected. Although everything is populated by flocks of seagulls and the ravages of time have gnawed away at the facades, you wouldn’t immediately recognise that no one has lived here for over 20 years. We then spend the evening on board. We make ourselves comfortable, turn on the heating and cook something delicious for dinner.
The next morning we go ashore again with the dinghy. This time we get rid of our thick suits right at the jetty. Yesterday, one or two of us almost died of heatstroke. And because we will probably be travelling more on foot today, we prefer to leave the suits on our dinghy. In the village, a young lady picks us up. She also carries a long gun over her shoulder, which makes sense given the fresh polar bear tracks near our boat this morning. The two-hour tour begins. I could write for hours about the tour alone. We walk through residential buildings, the former hospital, the town hall with cinema, a canteen, the swimming pool, a school with kindergarten and even the former KGB headquarters right across the town. Hundreds of photos are taken and just as many questions are asked. Guided tours are not really my thing, but this event is really worth recommending. Especially if you are interested in more recent history.
WOULD YOU LIKE TO EXPERIENCE SUCH AN ADVENTURE ON THE POLARIS?
