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Dream cruise from Ireland to Scotland

from Guido Dwersteg

In May and June 2023, the POLARIS continued its journey from Dublin to Oban on the west coast of Scotland. There were around 350 nautical miles to cover and the weather forecast promised summery weather with initially good sailing winds and pleasant temperatures.

Before our new guests could move into their berths and cabins, there were still a few small things to do – as is usual on a sailing ship. In addition to the obligatory cleaning of the boat, the two burners for the central heating system installed on the POLARIS also had to be serviced. This was a real acrobatic challenge given the sometimes very limited space available. In the end, however, Uwe and Guido managed to get everything done and the two powerful Webasto burners are now purring like new again.

On 28 May 2023, we then welcomed our new crew of three. Once we had settled into our berths and done our initial shopping, we headed into Dún Laoghaire for a delicious Asian dinner and a pint in the local pub.

The first ‘real day’ on board started after breakfast with the on-board and safety briefing, before we finally cast off the lines around midday and headed north. Today’s destination was Malahide Marina, just 12 nautical miles north of Dublin. It was a short sail, giving us plenty of time to familiarise ourselves with the POLARIS and all its controls, lines, sheets and buttons. The approach to Malahide was then really exciting. The very shallow approach had already been indicated on the nautical chart and so, despite the tide already being high enough, we only found a good 2 metres of water depth here and there. Thanks to the variable draught of our POLARIS, however, this was no problem and we were able to tie up the lines in Malahide in the early evening. A really nice marina in a sheltered little bay with marvellous views of the surrounding green meadows and hills.

Our next leg took us to Carlingford on the south side of the lough of the same name, which extends far inland. Once again, the sun was shining from a deep blue sky and a pleasant breeze, together with the huge Code Zero, made for a wonderful day’s sailing. On the approach to Carlingford Lough, we were greeted not only by beautiful scenery but also by a very strong tidal current. It can easily reach 3 knots or more here, especially in narrow passages. This should increase significantly as we head north.

Incidentally, we had reserved the berth in Carlingford in advance, just like most of the other berths on our trip. Otherwise, with our length of just under 18 metres, it would hardly have been possible to always find a suitable place. In the end, after passing through the very narrow harbour entrance, we were able to move into a nice berth on the outer hammerhead of the jetty in Carlingford and round off the evening with original Italian food. Beautiful here!

Our stop in Ardglass was also a real highlight. Ardglass is a tiny harbour and already belongs to Northern Ireland. Accordingly, we registered in advance via the British government’s online platform and, after another perfect day of sailing, put up the British host country flag together with the yellow Q flag to clear in. However, nobody really cared, so after a while we removed the flag again and enjoyed the fantastic atmosphere. Dinner was prepared on board today by Andrea, who, as a former catering entrepreneur, knows what she is doing.

Belfast here we come. We had actually planned to make a detour to the Isle of Man in the centre of the Irish Sea. After all, the infamous TT (Tourist Trophy), an almost suicidal motorbike race, had been going on there for a few days. Unfortunately, we were unable to reserve a place and the wind direction was not favourable for us. So we decided to sail further north and pay a visit to the Northern Irish metropolis of Belfast. Unfortunately, we lost the breeze about halfway through the journey, which meant we had to cover a longer distance under engine power for the first time. But that’s the way it is with sailing, because despite all the progress we’ve made, we still can’t really influence the weather – thank goodness.

When we arrived in Belfast, we went alongside a wooden barque that is over 100 years old. We were moored right in the centre of Belfast and in the immediate vicinity of the famous Harland & Wolff shipyard. This is where the TITANIC was built at the beginning of the last century. We had already been able to marvel at the shipyard site and in particular the futuristic-looking museum as we drove into the spacious harbour. In short, we spent a whole day in Belfast harbour. We used the time to relax, enjoy a delicious meal in the city and, of course, visit the really impressive TITANIC Museum. Well worth a visit!

At the request of our guests, a night cruise was now on the programme. More precisely, the passage from Northern Ireland to the Scottish coast. We had reserved a harbour berth in the tranquil town of Campletown on the Kintyre peninsula. We cast off at around 11 p.m. and were able to marvel at the impressive harbour facilities in Belfast as night fell. It takes a good hour to finally leave the fairway of the harbour entrance. From then on, we set a north-easterly course and enjoyed the peaceful atmosphere at sea.

As we all know, the nights are not particularly long in June and so we were able to make out the first silver lining on the horizon at around 3.30 am. The Scottish coast was also soon in sight, rising mysteriously from the sea, partly shrouded in fog banks. Some of our guests had stayed in the cockpit all night to enjoy the peaceful atmosphere. At some point, however, everyone retired to their warm bunks and Uwe and Guido completed the remaining miles on alternating watches.

In Campletown, the sun shone down on us again from a cloudless sky. However, our berth in the harbour was not yet free. So we first moored up at one of the many mooring buoys here and got a few hours’ sleep. Around midday, we were then able to move into the harbour and take our first trip ashore to the picturesque village.

After taking advantage of the particularly favourable refuelling options here the following day, we continued northwards around the southern tip of Kintyre. After some very strong current turbulence, we passed the famous Mull of Kintyre lighthouse, which is famous all over the world, not least because of the Wings’ well-known anthem. Here and there we could also see dolphins and seals looking for a snack in the turbulent currents.

The stops for the next few days were Gigha Island, Ardfern Marina, Kerreira Island and Tobermory. A great spot at the mooring buoy awaited us on Gigha Island. After a hot day at sea, skipper Uwe and Claus and Allan from the crew didn’t miss the chance to take a dip. You have to imagine that: Swimming in the middle of Scotland :-). The water seemed to be quite cold, however, as the boys didn’t really stay out for long. The POLARIS motorised dinghy then took them for a spin around the bay and, after another fantastic dinner from Andrea the next morning, they also took a trip to the island itself. Like Carlingford, the harbour of Ardfern lies far back in one of the Scottish loughs. This not only gives the marina an enchanting location, but the service facilities here are also excellent. You really can find everything a sailor’s heart desires. This is one of the reasons why we particularly praised the harbour and will certainly visit it again in the future. The evening visit to the pub with delicious food and the original English breakfast in Lucy’s Café will also remain in our memories. The small island of Kerreira just outside Oban had already been recommended to us several times by friends. So we also made a short stop here. The small harbour exudes a cosy atmosphere and there is a cosy bar on land run by the friendly owners of the marina. The island itself is best explored on foot, taking in the magnificent views of the surrounding waters, Oban and the small castle of Gylen. Incidentally, the latter ruin plays an important role in the novel ‘The Celtic Ring’, which we would like to recommend to sailors in particular.

Our penultimate destination before our final return to Oban was Tobermory. This is how you imagine Scotland. A small natural harbour with the obligatory mooring buoys, a neat little marina and a coastline lined with colourful little houses. Once again, we were moored in the harbour and could easily walk into the town in the evening. Our guest Allan had picked out a real insider tip here. Because in the actually inconspicuous ‘Cafe Fish’ we had probably the best fish we have eaten in a long time. Afterwards, a few beers in the pub and a whisky or two ensured that we were in a good mood and ready for bed :-).

Before heading back to Oban, we made one last stop at the marina in Dunstaffnagan. New service batteries were waiting for us here. After 4 years of continuous use, the old ones were a little weak and the power supply on board must of course always be reliable. As for the transport and subsequent installation of the batteries, which weigh almost 70 kilos per block, I can only say: ‘I don’t have to have them every day :-)’. In the end, however, we managed it quite well with our combined efforts and the POLARIS is now in Oban ready for her next voyages to the Outer Hebrides.

Would you also like to sail with us on our POLARIS and discover fantastic sailing areas? Then don’t hesitate and discover our current dates and destinations here. We look forward to seeing you!

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15. June 2023 Blog